History

The mici (literally 'small ones', also called mititei, 'tiny ones') is a Bucharest invention. A 1920 letter from the chef of Caru' cu bere on Strada Stavropoleos, preserved in the Romanian Academy library, records the recipe. Popular legend ties the dish to Iordache Ionescu's tavern at 3 Covaci Street in the late 1800s, who ran out of intestines for sausages and grilled the spiced minced meat in skinless form. The dish is first mentioned in print by French-Romanian journalist Ulysse de Marsillac in 1870, and named 'mititei' around 1872 by writer N. T. Orășanu. May 1 Labour Day is the citywide mici-eating tradition.

Common allergens: May contain garlic, Baking soda

Make it at home

Yield 16Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hrDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g ground beef (15-20 percent fat)
  • 300g ground lamb
  • 300g ground pork
  • 1 head garlic, peeled and pureed with a little water
  • 2 teaspoons fine sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon ground caraway or coriander
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 60ml beef broth or cold water
  • 60ml beef broth, cold
  • Mustard, fresh bread and pickled chillies to serve

Method

  1. In a large bowl, combine the three minced meats with the garlic puree, salt, pepper, caraway, paprika and the cold beef broth.
  2. Stir the baking soda solution into the meat mixture and knead for 5 minutes until the mixture becomes tacky and stiff.
  3. Cover and rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours (overnight is better) so the flavours bond and the baking soda activates.
  4. Heat a charcoal grill or cast-iron pan to high heat.
  5. Wet your hands and shape the mix into 16 cylinders about 8cm long and 2.5cm thick.
  6. Grill for 4-5 minutes per side, turning once, until charred outside and just-cooked inside.
  7. Serve immediately on a board with mustard, fresh bread and pickled chillies; a cold Romanian lager is the traditional companion.

Tip from the editors. The baking soda is non-negotiable: it gives mici their signature bouncy texture. Don't skip the cold-rest stage either, or the casing-less mince will crumble on the grill.

Where to eat mici (mititei)

Mici (Mititei) in Bucharest

Caru' cu bere ★ 4.6

Traditional Romanian$$$lipscaniMon-Sun 10:00-24:00

The 1879 Caru' cu bere on Stavropoleos serves the soul of Bucharest dining, where mici were recorded in a 1920 chef's letter to the Academy.

Signature: Mici, Sarmale, Papanași

Order: Mici with mustard and ciorbă de burtă, then papanași for dessert.

Tip: Walk-up queues from 12:30 onward; the upstairs hall has the live folk band.

Hanu' lui Manuc ★ 4.4

Traditional Romanian$$$lipscaniMon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-02:00; Sun 10:00-24:00

The 1808 caravanserai-turned-restaurant Hanu' lui Manuc on Franceză serves classic Romanian plates around one of Europe's last remaining inn courtyards.

Signature: Mici, Sarmale, Lamb tochitură

Order: Mici and a lamb tochitură; the cabbage rolls feed two.

Tip: The courtyard fills first; ask for a balcony table inside the U-shaped inn.

Mici la Piața Obor ★ 4.5

Eastern European$oborMon-Sun 09:00-19:00

Five mici with mustard, bread and a Romanian lager at Piața Obor in Bucharest for under 35 RON, the most-cited budget plate in the entire capital.

Try: Mici and bread plate

Tip: Cash speeds up the queue; weekend lunches book the benches by 12:30.

Hanu' Berarilor Casa Oprea Soare ★ 4.2

Romanian$$centru-civicSun-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-01:00

Hanu' Berarilor Casa Oprea Soare runs a neo-Romanesque manor as a brewery-restaurant near Bucharest's Piața Unirii, giant platters and house beer.

Signature: Mici, Roasted duck leg, 1 meter mixed platter

Order: The one-meter mici and grilled-meats platter; the oven-roasted duck leg.

Tip: Booking by phone is fastest; the courtyard runs to 24:00 in summer.

Berăria H ★ 4.0

BreweryHouse lager, beer hall scale$$floreascaMon-Sun 12:00-01:00

Berăria H opened in 2014 inside the former Heavy Industry Pavilion in Herastrau Park, billed as Southeast Europe's largest beer hall on a 5,000 sq m floor.

Tip: Concert hall doubles as the dining room; book tables when there's a name on the bill.

More cities are in research. Want mici (mititei) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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