History

The Rendezvous's Charlie Vergos started charcoal-broiling dry-rubbed ribs in his basement off Second Street in 1948. The technique caught on through Memphis BBQ joints in the 1950s and 1960s. By the time the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest started in 1978, dry-rub Memphis ribs were the contest's defining style. Local pitmasters now split into dry-rub and wet-sauce camps, with Cozy Corner, Payne's and Central BBQ all defending the dry-rub side.

Common allergens: Pork

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 2 racks pork spare ribs, St Louis cut, about 2.5kg total
  • 60g paprika
  • 30g garlic powder
  • 30g onion powder
  • 20g black pepper
  • 20g sea salt
  • 15g cayenne
  • 15g brown sugar
  • 10g dried oregano
  • Hickory wood chunks for the smoker

Method

  1. Combine paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, pepper, salt, cayenne, brown sugar and oregano in a bowl. This is the dry rub.
  2. Pat the ribs dry and apply the rub generously on both sides. Press it into the meat. Refrigerate uncovered for 4 hours.
  3. Heat a smoker to 110C with hickory wood. Place the ribs bone-side down. Smoke for 4 hours, maintaining 110C and replenishing wood every 45 minutes.
  4. Test for doneness: the meat should pull back from the bone and a toothpick slide easily between the bones. Add 30 minutes if not.
  5. Rest the ribs 10 minutes off the smoker. Sprinkle a fresh light dusting of the rub. Slice between the bones and serve dry, with sauce on the side.

Tip from the editors. Memphis dry-rub style serves sauce on the side; the rub does the work. Use St Louis cut spare ribs, not baby back.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat memphis dry-rub ribs

Memphis dry-rub ribs in Memphis

The Rendezvous ★ 4.6

Memphis BBQ$$downtown

Charlie Vergos's basement Memphis BBQ room off Second Street has served charcoal-broiled dry-rub ribs since 1948. The signature rub is sold by the bag.

Signature: Charcoal-broiled dry-rub pork ribs, Cheese and sausage plate

Order: Full slab of ribs, dry, with the cheese and sausage plate and a pitcher.

Tip: Enter through the alley off Monroe; closed Sunday and Monday. They cook ribs over charcoal, not in a smoker; dry-rub purists call it grilled.

Central BBQ Downtown ★ 4.5

Memphis BBQ$$downtown

Central BBQ Downtown in Memphis runs the city's most reliable dry-rub ribs and pulled pork from a casual counter across from the National Civil Rights Museum.

Signature: Dry-rub pork ribs, Pulled pork sandwich

Order: Half slab of dry ribs with a smoked turkey sandwich on the side.

Tip: Lines from noon to 14:00; order online and pick up at the express counter to skip the queue.

The Bar-B-Q Shop ★ 4.6

Memphis BBQ$$midtown

Frank and Hazel Vernon's Madison Avenue Memphis BBQ room invented BBQ spaghetti and has run dry-rub and wet ribs from a wood-pit smoker since 1987.

Signature: BBQ spaghetti, Dancing Pigs ribs

Order: Half slab of dry ribs with a side of BBQ spaghetti.

Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. The Dancing Pigs sauce ships nationally if you want to keep the meal going.

Cozy Corner BBQ ★ 4.7

pinch-district

Cozy Corner BBQ on North Parkway in the Pinch District in Memphis serves the city's most singular plate: hickory-smoked Cornish hens, idiosyncratic since 1977.

Why locals love it: Tourists head to Rendezvous; locals and BBQ pilgrims drive to Cozy Corner for the Cornish hen.

Tip: Tuesday to Saturday only. The bologna sandwich is the second order.

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