History

The meat-and-three Southern lunch grew out of Depression-era cafeteria service in the American South, codified across Alabama and Tennessee. Niki's West opened on Finley Avenue West in 1957 with steam-table cafeteria lines and remains the canonical Birmingham version. Eagle's Restaurant in Smithfield has cooked Black soul-food meat-and-three since 1951 and Demetri's BBQ in Homewood has run a Greek-American meat-and-three since 1973. The format is a daily-rotating board of meats and a steady roster of vegetable sides cooked from scratch.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 1 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 bone-in chicken thighs
  • 240ml buttermilk
  • 200g flour seasoned with 2 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon paprika, 1 teaspoon black pepper
  • Vegetable oil for shallow-frying
  • 500g collard greens, washed and stems removed
  • 200g salt-cured pork (ham hock or smoked pork)
  • 500g russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • 120ml whole milk
  • 60g butter
  • 1 can (425g) baked beans

Method

  1. Marinate the chicken thighs in buttermilk for at least 30 minutes (overnight is better).
  2. Simmer the collard greens with the smoked pork in 1L water for 45 minutes, until tender.
  3. Boil the potatoes until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain, mash with milk and butter, salt to taste.
  4. Dredge the buttermilk-marinated chicken in the seasoned flour. Shallow-fry in 1cm of oil at 180C / 350F until golden, 6 to 8 minutes per side.
  5. Warm the baked beans in a small pot.
  6. Plate each portion with a chicken thigh, a scoop of mashed potatoes, a scoop of collards and a scoop of baked beans. Serve with cornbread and sweet tea.

Tip from the editors. Vary the three sides daily; classic rotations include collards, mashed potatoes, mac and cheese, fried okra, butter beans and turnip greens with cornbread.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat meat-and-three southern lunch

Meat-and-three Southern lunch in Birmingham

Niki's West ★ 4.6

acipco-finleyMon-Fri 10:30-17:00; closed Sat-Sun

Niki's West on Finley Avenue West Birmingham has run the meat-and-three from a cafeteria steam table since 1957, opposite the Alabama Farmers Market.

Why locals love it: Tourists rarely cross the rail tracks to the Acipco-Finley district to find this 1957 cafeteria; locals queue for the catfish.

Tip: Get there by 12:30 for the fried catfish and turnip greens; weekday lunch is the peak.

Eagle's Restaurant ★ 4.6

smithfieldTue-Fri 10:30-15:30; closed Sat-Mon

Eagle's Restaurant on 16th Street North in Smithfield is the Black-owned soul-food anchor since 1951, with the Friday catfish and a multi-generation kitchen.

Why locals love it: The Smithfield Black-owned soul-food kitchen since 1951 sits a block from Acipco and most non-locals never find it.

Tip: Order the Friday catfish; closed Saturday and Monday so plan around the schedule.

Demetri's BBQ ★ 4.3

homewoodMon-Sat 06:00-16:30; Sun 09:30-14:00

Demetri's BBQ on 28th Avenue South Homewood Birmingham has run a Greek-American meat-and-three since 1973, continuing the 1961 El Rancho BBQ tradition.

Why locals love it: The 1973 Greek-American meat-and-three in Homewood is masked behind a barbecue sign; locals know it as a Birmingham lunch institution.

Tip: Order the Greek salad alongside the pulled-pork plate to taste the Greek-American crossover.

More cities are in research. Want meat-and-three southern lunch covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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