History

The fish taco crossed the border with surfers and fishermen from San Felipe and Ensenada, where Baja-California fishing villages had served beer-battered fried fish in a tortilla for generations. Ralph Rubio brought the dish back from a 1973 spring break trip, copied the recipe over seven years and opened the first Rubio's Deli-Mex at a former Orange Julius on Mission Bay Drive in 1983, selling fish tacos at 99 cents. The Rubio's chain put the dish on the national map; San Diego is now the American capital of fish-taco interpretation, from beer-battered originals to grilled mahi mahi at Oscar's and ceviche variants at Blue Water Seafood and Mariscos German trucks.

Common allergens: Gluten, Fish, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g firm white fish (pollock, cod or mahi mahi), cut into 8 strips
  • 150g plain flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder, half a teaspoon salt
  • 240ml cold Mexican lager
  • 1 large egg
  • Half a teaspoon paprika, half a teaspoon cumin
  • 8 small corn tortillas (15cm)
  • Half a small green cabbage, finely shredded
  • 1 cup white sauce (120g mayonnaise + 120g sour cream + 1 lime juiced)
  • Salsa fresca (1 tomato, half a white onion, half a jalapeno, cilantro, lime, salt)
  • Lime wedges, neutral oil for frying

Method

  1. Whisk flour, baking powder, salt, paprika and cumin in a bowl. Add the egg and cold beer; whisk to a smooth, pancake-thin batter. Rest 10 minutes.
  2. Heat 5cm of neutral oil to 180C (360F) in a heavy pan.
  3. Pat the fish dry. Dredge each strip in a little plain flour, then dip in the batter. Lift, let excess drip off, lower into the oil.
  4. Fry 3 to 4 minutes until golden and floating, turning once. Drain on paper.
  5. Warm the corn tortillas in a dry pan, 20 seconds per side. Double them up for structure.
  6. Build each taco: a strip of fish, a generous handful of shredded cabbage, a drizzle of white sauce, a spoon of salsa fresca and a squeeze of lime.

Tip from the editors. The batter MUST stay cold. Park it in the fridge if frying takes more than 10 minutes; warm batter loses its lift and the fish goes greasy.

Where to eat fish taco

Fish taco in San Diego

Tacos El Gordo ★ 4.7

Californian$chula-vista

Tacos El Gordo in Chula Vista, San Diego, the open-until-4am Tijuana-style trompo carving adobada tacos for around three dollars and California burritos.

Try: Vertical-trompo adobada tacos under $4

556 Broadway, Chula Vista, CA 91910

Lola 55 ★ 4.5

Brunch$$east-villageMon-Thu 11:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-21:00

Lola 55 is modern bib gourmand taqueria tucked into a quiet f street block behind petco park, more reservation-friendly than the bigger names.

Order: Pork belly al pastor, smoked fish taco, mezcal cocktail

Why locals love it: Modern Bib Gourmand taqueria tucked into a quiet F Street block behind Petco Park, more reservation-friendly than the bigger names.

Tip: Sit at the bar for the taco omakase; the brunch menu is the easiest way in without a reservation.

1290 F St, San Diego, CA 92101 Book →

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