Beer-battered white fish, fried golden, served on warm corn tortillas with shredded cabbage, white sauce, salsa fresca and a wedge of lime. The Baja-California original; San Diego made it national in 1983.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
The fish taco crossed the border with surfers and fishermen from San Felipe and Ensenada, where Baja-California fishing villages had served beer-battered fried fish in a tortilla for generations. Ralph Rubio brought the dish back from a 1973 spring break trip, copied the recipe over seven years and opened the first Rubio's Deli-Mex at a former Orange Julius on Mission Bay Drive in 1983, selling fish tacos at 99 cents. The Rubio's chain put the dish on the national map; San Diego is now the American capital of fish-taco interpretation, from beer-battered originals to grilled mahi mahi at Oscar's and ceviche variants at Blue Water Seafood and Mariscos German trucks.
Common allergens: Gluten, Fish, Dairy
Tip from the editors. The batter MUST stay cold. Park it in the fridge if frying takes more than 10 minutes; warm batter loses its lift and the fish goes greasy.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Lucha Libre Gourmet Taco Shop in Mission Hills, San Diego, the wrestling-themed counter on Washington Street where Surfin' California burritos last until 11pm on weekends.
Try: Surfin' California burrito, four-dollar tacos, late-night chips and guac
Tacos El Gordo in Chula Vista, San Diego, the open-until-4am Tijuana-style trompo carving adobada tacos for around three dollars and California burritos under twelve.
Try: Vertical-trompo adobada tacos under $4
More cities are in research. Want fish taco covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.