Ciorbă de burtă
Photo: Sacha47 · CC BY-SA 4.0

History

Ciorbă is the Romanian word for a sour soup, and Wikipedia says the word comes from Ottoman Turkish. Hanu' Berarilor's menu says its tripe soup follows an old recipe from the Obor barrier, the market district of north-east Bucharest. Hanu' lui Manuc cooks calf tripe with celery, carrot, onion, sour cream and egg and serves its soups with hot chilies, and La Mama's version adds garlic and vinegar. Caru' cu bere, Vatra and Mahala list it too.

Common allergens: Tripe, Garlic, Egg yolk

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 4 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 800g beef tripe (honeycomb), trimmed and cleaned
  • 1 large beef bone (with marrow)
  • 2 carrots, peeled
  • 1 parsnip, peeled
  • 1 white onion, peeled
  • 2 celeriac stalks
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • 100ml white wine vinegar (or 200ml borș)
  • 1 whole head of garlic, peeled and pureed with a little water
  • 200g smântână (sour cream)
  • 2 egg yolks
  • Salt, fresh chilli and parsley to finish

Method

  1. Bring the tripe and beef bone to a boil in 3 litres of cold water. Skim foam, then simmer for 30 minutes.
  2. Drain, rinse the tripe, and return to the pot with fresh water and the bone.
  3. Add carrots, parsnip, whole onion, celeriac, bay leaves and peppercorns. Simmer for 3 hours, partially covered, until the tripe is tender enough to slice with a spoon.
  4. Lift out the tripe and slice into thin strips; strain the broth and discard the bone and vegetables (or save the carrots).
  5. Return the broth and tripe to the pot. Stir in the vinegar (or borș) to taste, salt to season.
  6. Whisk the sour cream with the egg yolks and 200ml of warm broth; stir back into the pot off the heat to thicken without curdling.
  7. Stir in half the garlic puree; the rest goes to the table.
  8. Serve in deep bowls with the table garlic puree, fresh chilli and chopped parsley; a slice of dense rye bread on the side.

Tip from the editors. The vinegar versus borș call is regional: south-Romanian tradition uses borș, Bucharest restaurants almost always use vinegar. Either way, add the souring liquid to taste at the end, not earlier.

Where to eat ciorbă de burtă

Ciorbă de burtă in Bucharest

Caru' cu bere ★ 4.6

Traditional RomanianLipscani

Caru' cu bere is a traditional Romanian restaurant at Strada Stavropoleos 5 in the Old Town, serving beer made to an original recipe from 1879.

OrderMititei, the grilled minced meat rolls.

TipReservations can be made online or by phone, at least 24 hours ahead.

Hanu' lui Manuc ★ 4.4

Traditional RomanianLipscani

Hanu' lui Manuc is a Traditional Romanian restaurant at Strada Franceză 62-64, a legendary setting in the historic centre of Bucharest with party rooms.

SignatureMici, Sarmale, Lamb tochitură

TipBook ahead: the restaurant's own site says a reservation is necessary here.

Vatra ★ 4.3

RomanianCismigiu

Vatra is a Romanian restaurant at Strada Ion Brezoianu 19, neighbouring Cismigiu Park, where Romanian cuisine meets Transylvanian interior decorations.

OrderSarmale with mămăliguță, and the Romanian cheese plate of sheep and cow telemea with burduf.

TipExpect traditional music with the meal; Vatra is near Cismigiu Park and takes table bookings on its own site.

Mahala ★ 4.5

Modern RomanianCentru Civic

Mahala is a Modern Romanian restaurant at Calea Rahovei 147-153, the very own restaurant of chef Petru Sorin Cucu, with a contemporary design.

SignatureCiorbă de burtă cu trufe, Turbot, Quail dumplings

TipReserve by phone on 0729 003 002; the restaurant is a stone's throw away from downtown Bucharest.

Hanu' Berarilor Casa Oprea Soare ★ 4.0

RomanianCentru Civic

Hanu' Berarilor Casa Oprea Soare is a Romanian restaurant at Strada Poenaru Bordea 2, one of three Hanu' Berarilor gastronomic breweries in Bucharest.

SignatureMici, Sarmale, Roast pork knuckle

TipThe group pairs its meat products with its strongest and most aromatic beers.

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