History

Bitterballen evolved from the bitter, an aperitif served before dinner with small savoury snacks. The Dutch beef-ragout filling reads as kitchen-economy thinking: leftover stew thickened with roux, chilled into a ball, breaded and fried to order. Every Amsterdam brown cafe and most modern bars run them; De Ballenbar inside Foodhallen pushes the format with truffle and lobster variants for a splurge.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy, Egg

Make it at home

Yield 24Hands-on 45 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g cooked beef shin or chuck, finely shredded (use leftover stew meat or simmer 500g raw shin in 1L beef stock for 2 hours)
  • 60g unsalted butter
  • 60g plain flour
  • 500ml beef stock, hot
  • 2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard, plus more to serve
  • 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce, pinch of grated nutmeg
  • 100g plain flour and 3 eggs (beaten) plus 200g fine dried breadcrumbs for coating
  • 1L sunflower oil for deep-frying
  • Sea salt and ground white pepper

Method

  1. Melt the butter in a wide pan, stir in the flour, and cook the roux for 3 minutes until pale gold but not coloured.
  2. Whisk the hot stock in gradually, returning to the heat for 5 minutes until very thick like wallpaper paste.
  3. Stir through the shredded beef, parsley, mustard, Worcestershire, nutmeg, salt and white pepper. Spread the mix onto a tray to 2cm thickness, cover and chill at least 4 hours until firm.
  4. Roll the chilled ragout into 24 balls of about 30g each; if it sticks, wet your hands.
  5. Roll each ball in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs; repeat the egg-and-breadcrumb step once more for a double coat that holds at fry temperature.
  6. Heat the oil to 180 degrees Celsius and fry the bitterballen in batches of six for 3 to 4 minutes, turning, until deep golden.
  7. Drain briefly on paper, sprinkle with sea salt, and serve immediately with a pot of grainy mustard.

Tip from the editors. Double-breading is the difference between a Dutch bitterbal and a French croquette; the first coat seals the ragout, the second gives the crackle. Fry from cold and your ball will burst.

Where to eat bitterballen

Bitterballen in Amsterdam

De Ballenbar at Foodhallen ★ 4.3

Street foodSun-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-00:00

De Ballenbar inside Foodhallen serves Amsterdam bitterballen on the bar, beef ragout deep-fried, with truffle and lobster variants for the splurge order.

Try: Bitterballen and croquettes by the dozen

Café Hoppe ★ 4.6

Cocktail barBrown cafe€€€Sun-Thu 09:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 09:00-02:00

Café Hoppe on Spui has poured Amsterdam jenever and beer since 1670, the brown cafe with the dark-wood interior and the stand-at-the-bar after-work crowd.

Signature drink: Jenever, Dutch pilsner on tap

Food: Bitterballen, cheese, bar snacks

Café 't Smalle ★ 4.6

Cocktail barBrown cafe€€€Mon-Wed 14:00-00:00; Thu 14:00-01:00; Fri 13:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Café 't Smalle on Egelantiersgracht in the Jordaan is the Amsterdam canal-side brown cafe with the postcard terrace, the building going back.

Signature drink: Jenever, Belgian and Dutch ale

Food: Bar snacks

Moeders Dutch Kitchen ★ 4.0

Dutch€€jordaanDaily 17:00-00:00

Moeders on Rozengracht is the Amsterdam stamppot room, walls lined with photos of mothers from customers, the menu a Dutch grandmother's repertoire.

Signature: Stamppot, Erwtensoep, Bitterballen

Order: Stamppot of the week with rookworst sausage.

Tip: Bring a photo of your mother to add to the wall. Reservation advised.

Café Papeneiland ★ 4.5

Cocktail barBrown cafe€€€Mon-Thu 11:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-01:00

Café Papeneiland on the corner of Prinsengracht and Brouwersgracht is the Amsterdam brown cafe from 1642, the apple pie inside almost as canonical as Winkel.

Signature drink: Jenever, beer on tap, coffee with apple pie

Food: Apple pie, bitterballen, cheese

Bitterballen in Rotterdam

De Witte Aap ★ 4.3

Dutch€€Witte de WithstraatMon-Thu 16:00-02:00; Fri-Sat 14:00-04:00; Sun 14:00-02:00

Rotterdam's most famous brown cafe runs until 4am on weekends with Dutch craft beers, bitterballen, and free live music. Bar snacks only but the late-night.

Frietboutique ★ 4.4

DutchWitte de WithstraatMon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Fri-Sat until 02:00

Rotterdam's best artisan frites stall in the Markthal, frying twice in beef tallow with a dozen house sauces. Located in Witte De Withstraat.

Tip: Order the truffle mayo alongside the classic joppiesaus for the full Dutch frites experience.

De Ballentent ★ 3.6

DutchKralingenDaily 11:00-22:00

The original Rotterdam ballentent cafe in Kralingen Park, known for terrace meals overlooking the lake. Priced at €. Open daily 11:00-22:00.

Order: The uitsmijter (open egg-and-ham toast) on a sunny terrace day with a Dutch Pils.

Tip: The outdoor terrace faces west; the evening light in summer makes this worth a detour for drinks alone.

Bitterballen in Utrecht

Kafe Belgie ★ 4.8

Belgian€€oudegrachtUntil 04:00

Utrecht's late-night institution on the Oudegracht serving until 04:00 on weekends. Belgian fries, over 200 beers and a chaotic, popular interior since 1980.

Try: Belgian fries with andalouse sauce

Ledig Erf ★ 4.7

Belgian€€centrumUntil 02:00

Historic brown cafe on the Tolsteegplein open to 02:00 on weekends. Forty Dutch and Belgian beers, bitterballen and a legendary local atmosphere.

Try: Bitterballen and Dutch bar snacks

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