History

Birria originated in Jalisco state of Mexico in the 16th century, a slow-cooked goat dish developed as a way to use the wild goats Spanish colonists released into the Mexican highlands. The dish migrated north through Mexican populations into the Sonoran Desert and California, switching from goat (chivo) to beef (res) along the way for affordability. The quesabirria taco format was popularised in Tijuana and Los Angeles in the mid-2010s and exploded across Phoenix in 2018 to 2020. Tacos Huicho and Birrieria El Sazon Tapatio serve canonical Phoenix versions.

Common allergens: Dairy (in quesabirria)

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 5 hrDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 2kg beef chuck roast or beef shin (bone-in if possible, for collagen)
  • 500g short ribs or beef oxtail (for richness in the consomé)
  • For the chili paste: 8 dried guajillo chilies, 4 dried ancho chilies, 2 dried chiles de árbol (for heat), all stemmed and seeded
  • 8 garlic cloves
  • 1 large white onion, quartered
  • 1 (5cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
  • 2 ripe tomatoes
  • 4 whole cloves
  • 2 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 tbsp dried Mexican oregano
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 3 tbsp apple cider vinegar
  • 1.5 tbsp sea salt
  • 2L beef stock (or water plus 4 beef bouillon cubes)
  • For quesabirria tacos: 20 corn tortillas (preferably handmade, from a Sonoran tortilleria), 300g grated Oaxacan string cheese or mozzarella, vegetable oil for the griddle
  • Garnishes: 2 white onions (finely diced)
  • 1 large bunch cilantro (finely chopped)
  • 4 limes (cut in wedges)
  • 200ml crema mexicana or sour cream

Method

  1. Toast the dried chilies in a dry hot frying pan 20 seconds per side until fragrant and pliable (do not burn).
  2. Place the toasted chilies in a heatproof bowl, cover with 750ml of boiling water, soak 20 minutes until soft.
  3. Meanwhile, dry-roast the cumin seeds, cloves, oregano, coriander and peppercorns in the same hot pan for 60 seconds, then grind in a spice grinder or mortar.
  4. Drain the chilies, reserving 500ml of the soaking liquid.
  5. Blend the soaked chilies, garlic, quartered onion, ginger, tomatoes, ground spices, cinnamon stick (broken in half), bay leaves, vinegar, salt and the 500ml reserved soaking liquid in a powerful blender until completely smooth, 90 seconds.
  6. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing firmly to extract every drop. Discard any solids left in the sieve.
  7. Place the beef chuck, short ribs and any oxtail in a heavy Dutch oven. Pour the chili sauce over the beef, turning to coat.
  8. Add the beef stock (or water plus bouillon); the meat should be just covered.
  9. Bring to a low simmer, then cover and braise either in a 160 degrees Celsius oven or on the lowest stovetop heat for 3.5 to 4 hours, until the meat shreds easily.
  10. Lift the meat out of the consomé; shred the beef chuck with two forks into long fibrous strands. Pick the short rib meat from the bones, shred and add it to the chuck shreds.
  11. Strain the consomé through a fine sieve into a clean pot. Skim off as much surface fat as possible into a separate bowl (the orange chili-stained fat is essential; reserve it for the tortillas).
  12. Adjust the consomé seasoning with more salt and a tablespoon more vinegar if needed.
  13. Serve birria 'two ways': ladle a deep bowl of warm consomé per diner, with a small plate of the shredded beef, diced onion, cilantro, lime wedges and a generous tortilla basket.
  14. For quesabirria tacos: heat a flat griddle over medium-high heat. Dip each tortilla in the reserved orange chili fat to coat both sides, lay on the griddle. Sprinkle 2 tbsp grated cheese on one half, top with 2 tbsp shredded meat, fold the tortilla over the filling. Cook 90 seconds per side until the tortilla is crisp and the cheese melted.
  15. Dunk each crisp taco in the bowl of consomé and bite; the broth-soaked tortilla is the structural payoff.

Tip from the editors. The strained, fat-skimmed consomé is structural; the orange-stained fat reserved for tortilla-frying is what gives quesabirria tacos their signature colour and flavour. Use Mexican-style corn tortillas (handmade if possible); supermarket flour tortillas do not work for the dipping process.

Where to eat birria de res

Birria de Res in Phoenix

Tacos Huicho ★ 4.2

Mexican$north-phoenixMon-Thu 08:00-24:00; Fri 08:00-01:00; Sat 08:00-24:00

Tacos Huicho on Thunderbird Road is a Sinaloan-style taqueria known for vertical-spit al pastor, carne asada and tortas, with a busy north Phoenix taco line.

Signature: Al pastor, Carne asada tacos, Tortas

Order: Al pastor tacos carved off the trompo.

Tip: Cash-friendly and quick; the al pastor is the order, with pineapple from the spit.

3831 E Thunderbird Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85032 Book →

Asadero Norte de Sonora ★ 4.4

Sonoran Mexican$central-phoenixMon-Tue 08:00-20:00; Wed closed; Thu-Sun 08:00-20:00

Asadero Norte de Sonora on 16th Street is a neighbourhood Sonoran grill, turning out mesquite carne asada wrapped in house-made flour tortillas.

Signature: Carne asada, House flour tortillas, Barbacoa

Order: Carne asada tacos on the giant house-made flour tortillas.

Tip: Closed Wednesdays; the grilled chicken is as good as the beef if the asada line is long.

122 N 16th St, Phoenix, AZ 85034 Book →

Comedor Guadalajara ★ 4.1

Mexican$Mon-Tue closed; Wed-Thu 11:00-17:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-17:00

Comedor Guadalajara on South Central is a big sit-down Mexican room of regional staples, fast service and lunch specials that fill a plate without much spend.

Try: Mexican plate lunches

Order: A combination plate off the lunch-special menu with rice and beans.

Tip: Lunch specials are the value; the room is large, so walk-ins move fast.

1830 S Central Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85004

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