Baccala mantecato
Photo: Ben & Lisa Waters [1] · CC BY 2.0

History

Baccala mantecato is Venice's interpretation of dried stockfish, brought back from Norway by Venetian merchant Pietro Querini after his 1432 shipwreck on the Lofoten Islands. The Venetians whip the soaked-and-cooked salt cod with olive oil into a pale emulsion (the mantecatura), the texture of a thick aioli. Served traditionally on grilled polenta crostini, it is the canonical winter cicchetto from November through Easter. Despite the name (baccala in Italian usually means salt cod), Venetians use stockfish (dried, not salted) for this dish, the legacy of the Querini trade route.

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Common allergens: Fish

Make it at home

Yield 6Hands-on 30 minTotal P2DT30MDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 500g stockfish (or salt cod), soaked 48 hours in cold water (change water 4-5 times)
  • 300ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove
  • 200ml whole milk (optional, for traditional version)
  • Sea salt, white pepper
  • Chopped parsley to finish
  • Polenta crostini (grilled) for serving

Method

  1. Soak the stockfish for 48 hours in cold water, changing the water 4-5 times.
  2. Place the drained stockfish in a pan with the garlic clove and just enough water (or milk) to cover. Simmer 25 minutes until the flesh flakes.
  3. Drain the stockfish, reserve the cooking liquid. Remove all skin and bones. Discard the garlic.
  4. Place the flaked fish in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Beat at medium speed, drizzling in the olive oil slowly as for mayonnaise.
  5. Loosen with a splash of cooking liquid if the mixture stiffens. Beat 10 minutes until pale and creamy.
  6. Season with salt and white pepper, finish with chopped parsley. Serve on grilled polenta crostini.

Tip from the editors. Stockfish, not salt cod, is the canonical version; if you can only find salt cod, soak 24 hours and skip the salt.

Where to eat baccala mantecato

Baccala mantecato in Venice

Cantina Do Mori ★ 4.6

€ Italian

Cantina Do Mori in Venice's San Polo near Rialto is the 1462-founded bacaro, with francobolli sandwiches at €1.50 to €3, the cheapest historic-bar meal.

TryFrancobolli sandwiches and ombre

TipCash only. Walk-in. Closed Sundays. The francobolli (postage-stamp-sized sandwiches) are the move; pair with ombre at €1.50.

Osteria All'Arco ★ 4.8

€ Italian

Osteria All'Arco near Rialto in San Polo serves cicchetti at €1.50 to €4 each, the canonical bacari budget meal with francobolli sandwiches and lagoon-fish.

TryCicchetti at the bar

TipSix cicchetti plus two ombre runs roughly €20 to 25 for a full meal. Closes after lunch.

Antiche Carampane ★ 4.6

€€€ ItalianSan Polo

Antiche Carampane in Venice's San Polo is the 1983 family-run seafood trattoria the Rialto fishmongers send friends to, the room with the no-tourist-menu.

OrderSpaghetti with vongole, fritto misto della laguna, sarde in saor.

TipBook a fortnight ahead. Closed Sundays and Mondays. The dining room has 10 tables, so flexibility on date is more useful than time.

Vini da Gigio ★ 4.5

€€ Italian

Vini da Gigio is lazzari family trattoria on calle stua in cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

Why locals goLazzari family trattoria on Calle Stua in Cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.

TipClosed Mondays and Tuesdays. Book a week ahead. The wine cellar is the reason; ask Laura Lazzari for pairings.

Osteria alle Testiere ★ 4.7

€€€€ Tasting €80ItalianChef Bruno Gavagnin

Osteria alle Testiere in Castello is the 22-seat lagoon-fish bistro with two seatings per service, run by Bruno Gavagnin and Luca di Vita since 1993.

Book3 weeks ahead

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